2014年10月13日 星期一

路 — 寫在 2014年夏季長途旅行歸來之後 / Road: About the Long Journey in Summer 2014

有段時間很熱衷於旅行,那是在二十幾歲的年紀、正值求學和剛出社會的階段,憑藉著一股想突破書本和課堂中的所學的衝勁,積極向外探索未知的事物。直到2007年的那趟間隔年 (gap year) 長途旅行歸來之後,想法有所轉變,而後就不再頻繁地出遊。一度以為不會再有類似的長途旅行了,然而世事難料,今年夏天偶然有了個機會,也就樂得順隨這個難得的機遇了。

I once keen on traveling when I was twenties. At that time, I enthusiastically exploring unknown things so as to get beyond the limitation of the knowledge learned from school and books. After my gap year journey in 2007, I changed my mind and don’t travel frequently anymore. I once thought I wouldn’t make a long journey anymore. However, I occasionally get a chance to do it again this summer. 


這次去的地方主要是在印度最北部喜馬拉雅山沿線的拉達克 (Ladakh)、喜馬恰爾 (Himachal) 地區境內。這些地方在地理上位於西藏高原西部邊緣,人文風貌以西藏文化為主。每年一到夏秋之際,主要來自西方國家的旅人們不辭山高水遠而到訪,為的是那些深山裡難得一見的美景 、遺世獨立的村莊和有著質樸美感的人事物。

This time I mainly visited the places in Ladakh and Himachal regions of north India which are on the edge of western Tibetan plateau. Tibetan culture is the majority culture in the places. In summer and autumn of each year, the travellers mainly from western countries come to the faraway places for the unusual beautiful scenery of deep mountains, the isolated villages, and the things with unadorned beauty.

早晨陽光下的冰川(Drang Drung冰川,Zanskar地區)
A glacier under morning sunshine (Drang Drung glacier, Zanskar district)

午後的村莊(Karsha村,Zanskar地區)
A village’s afternoon (Karsha village, Zanskar district)

深山裡的寺院(Phuktal寺,Zanskar地區)
A monastery in deep mountains (Phuktal monastery, Zanskar district)

正在吃晚餐的沙彌(Phuktal寺,Zanskar地區)
A little monk having dinner (Phuktal monastery, Zanskar district)

頂著鐵架子的牛犢(Mud村,Pin山谷)
A calf pushing an iron shelf (Mud village, Pin valley)


一趟下來一如既往看到了無數的美景,不過這次特別觸動我的並不是那些絕世的美麗,而是走過的那些路。這次因為有比較多徒步、搭便車的路程,因此特別能貼近、感受這些道路的本身。由於地處中亞內陸的高寒乾燥地區,自然環境條件嚴峻加上位於低度開發的偏遠邊陲地帶,多數道路還是簡陋的土石路面,常需要頂著高原的烈日、忍受著強勁的風沙走在特別漫長的路程中,無論步行或搭車都是不小的考驗。

In this journey, as before, I saw many beautiful scenery. But this time what especially touched me was not the extreme beautiful scenery, but the roads. Since this time I had more chances to travel by trekking and hitchhiking, I can close and feel the roads more. It’s always a suffering for travellers to walk or ride on the bumping roads under burning sun and sandy winds, while the roads are located in the interior of central Asia where is high, cold, and dry.

山谷中的道路(Padum山谷,Zanskar地區)
A road in a vally (Padum valley, Zanskar district)

河谷中的道路(附近Bardan村,Zanskar地區)
A road in a river vally (Near to Bardan village, Zanskar district)


由於交通不發達加上地廣人稀,攔便車往往需要耗費許多小時的枯燥等待,而攔到的車子也多半是貨車、拖拉機等等非載人用途的車輛,因此在顛簸的路上跟車上的貨物一起度過的時光也在所難免。有些特別偏遠的村莊還不能通行車輛,只靠僅容人與牲畜行走的小徑與外界往來,所以至今仍然可以見到使用牲畜的運輸方式,頗讓人有時空錯置感。

Since less in development and small population, hours of time have to be spent to wait while hitchhiking. The vehicles can be hitched are mostly trucks, tractors, or other vehicles not for carrying passengers, hence it’s inevitable to spend time on bumping roads with the cargos on a vehicle. There are still some specifically faraway villages which can’t be accessed by vehicles and connected through trails for humans and animals. As a result, the ancient transportation methods using animals can still be seen there.

峽谷中的小徑(Phuktal寺附近,Zanskar地區)
A trail in a gourge (Near to Phuktal monastery, Zanskar district)

運貨的馬隊(Cha村附近,Zanskar地區)
A train of horses carrying goods (Near to Cha village, Zanskar district)


而在地勢比較險峻的地方,特別是那種開在峽谷中的懸崖峭壁上的羊腸小徑,腳下的每一步都是風險。有時還需要仰賴特殊的交通工具,例如一些河畔的小村莊在尚未有條件興建橋樑的情況下,會使用溜索作為聯外的交通工具,而對一般旅人而言要用一根鋼索渡河難免需要一番心理掙扎。

When walking on the trails in the places with severe terrain, especially for the traills on a cliff, each step is a risk. Sometimes special transportation means are used. For instance, in the riverside small villages which are not affordable to build bridges, steel ropes are usually used as the transportation means to other places. However, inner struggles are inevitable for travellers to use a steel rope to cross river. 

開在峭壁上的小徑(Anmu村附近,Zanskar地區)
A trail on a cliff  (Near to Anmu village, Zanskar district)

小徑一側的峭壁(Anmu村附近,Zanskar地區)
A cliff on a side of a trail (Near to Anmu village, Zanskar district)

使用溜索渡河 (Siluk村附近,Spiti山谷)
Using a steel rope to cross river (Near to Siluk village, Spiti valley)



嚴峻的環境還造就頻仍的天災人禍。在這些地方旅行每每會見聞到山崩、土石流之類的天災和車禍、車輛掉落河谷等意外,時常會阻礙交通而迫使人們改道或在半路上長時間等待、甚至於停留,能順利地走完全程需要的是好運。

The severe environment cause frequent disasters. Natual disasters such as mudflows and landslides and traffic accidents are often encountered or heard whenever traveling in the places. The disasters often block the traffic and force passengers to change route, wait for long time, or even stay on halfway. Good luck is needed to travel all the way without an accident.

走過一座被土石流沖得半垮的吊橋。在走之前和過程中還算是鎮定從容,走過之後卻不由自主地罵了幾句粗話(Pin山谷)
A suspension bridge which is seriously damaged by  mudflows.  I’m calm before and during crossing the bridge, though cannot help but using coarse languages after crossing it  (Pin valley)


* * * * *


艱辛的路程無疑是考驗人的身體狀況,而一趟旅程、特別是長途旅行的成敗最終看的還是心理的強度。試想旅途中難免會遭遇的一個狀況:背著沈重的行李走在陌生的路上,夜晚即將來臨卻還沒找到落腳的地方,又餓、又渴、又累、感覺行李越來越沈重。體能即將耗盡之際,焦急、懷疑、恐懼等負面情緒油然而生,爭執開始在旅伴之間蔓延開來。

Tough journeys are undoubtedly a trial to the physical condition of a person. However, the achievement a journey, especially for a long journey, will eventually depend on mental strength. There’s a condition inevitably be encountered in a journey: a person walks on a strange route with heavy luggages to find a place to stay overnight while sunset is near. Anxiety, doubt, fear or other negative emotions emerge when almost exhausted.

徒步前往Mud村的途中,在黃昏的日光中趕路(Pin山谷)
On the way trekking to Mud village.  In a hurry because sunset was near.  (Pin valley)


人的身體有其物理極限,而身體的不適常又伴隨著負面的情緒。在身心兩方面的內外夾擊之下,人的性格弱點往往會表露無遺,這時意志力和處理情緒的能力就成為旅程是否能持續下去的關鍵。再加上旅行過程中時常會有的突發事件、以至於偷搶拐騙之類的危險或意外常會影響旅程的進行,因此要能禁得起漫長旅途中的重重考驗,除了隨機應變的能力之外,更重要的是處變不驚的功夫。

Negative emotions are often come along with the discomfort of body. The weakness of a person’s character always reveals itself under the attack from both physical and mental sides. At the time, the willpower and the ability to deal with emotions are the key factors to sustain the journey. In addition, many events and even the dangers such as stealing and robbery will often affect the process of a journey. Therefore, the ability to act according to circumstances is needed while the capability to keep calm is more important.


這些年的足跡遍及了印度、中國等國境內的西藏文化地區,在那些旅程中每每都會遭遇類似的困難險阻。而讓我不畏艱險一次次造訪的,是西藏所獨具的一種純粹而質樸的美感,就如同那些皎潔的雪山、澄澈的湖泊和純真善良的民風。怎奈美麗的東西總是脆弱的,眼看那些純粹、質樸的美在物質文明的污染下漸漸變了模樣,只能繼續尋找下一片僅存的淨土。

I visited many places in Tibetan culture regions in the countries include India and China. I visited there repeatedly although similar dangers and difficulties are always encountered in the journeys because I favor the pure and unadorned beauty of Tibet, as the snow capped mountains, the lakes, and the simple, honest, and unspoiled people. However, beautiful things are always fragile. When the pure and unadorned beauty are gradually polluted by material civilization, I cannot help but continue to look for the next pure land.

清澈的高原湖泊(Drang Drung冰川附近,Zanskar地區)
A clear lake on plateau (Near to Drang Drung glacier,Zanskar district)


在重複了許多次這樣的追尋過程之後,終於發覺這正是我的人生寫照:心目中總有些理想的東西,可以為之一次又一次地重複著尋找、追求的過程,每每竭盡所能、以至於性命相許。這跟大多數人的人生本質上沒有太大差別:為了滿足欲望而忙碌,而滿足一個欲望之後的空虛感,就滿足另一個欲望來填補,換來的是越來越難覺得滿足和越來越強烈的空虛感,到頭來徒然勞苦一生。這樣的追逐是不會有盡頭的,而除了繼續下去之外又能怎麼辦?

After repeatedly similar pursuing process for several times, I finally found it’s the portrayal of my life: there’re always ideals in my mind which I repeatedly pursuing for. As a matter of fact, it’s not much different from most people’s life: always busy for satisfying desires, and offset the emptiness feeling after satisfying a desire by satisfying another desire. Finally, the satisfaction is getting hard to achieve while the emptiness feeling is getting serious. The pursuing is seemed endless, but what can I do instead of repeatedly it?

走在山間小徑(Phuktal寺附近,Zanskar地區)
Walk on a trail in mountains (Near to Phuktal monastery, Zanskar district)


七年前那趟旅程之後,我一改以往只是向外追尋的作法、開始往自己的內心探索。往內心的探索儘管不是藉由旅行的形式,卻也在過程中接觸了許多新的領域,是一段別樣的旅程。 

After the journey seven years ago, I began to explore my inner world instead of merely pursuing outwardly. Although the exploring is not performed through traveling, it’s another style of journey because I explored many new thing in the process.


* * * * *


這次旅行不同於以往的是,刻意安排造訪了一些先前去過、而有著許多記憶的地方。七年的光陰過去,原本質樸的小鎮變成商業化的大城市、以更迎合觀光客的姿態示人,看著這樣的情景,心裡多少有點不是滋味。

This journey is different from the journeys in the past because some of the places with many memories are revisited. After seven years, the originally unadorned towns become to the citys which cater to tourists more. I feel some sad after seeing the scene.

街道改建工程的看板。可以看出新的街道將融合外來文化的美感(Leh)
A billboard of a street reconstruction project.  It can be seened that the new street will in a style with the ideas of other cultures. (Leh)


對我來說,那些旅程中最重要的倒不是那些美得不像人間的美景,而是途中所邂逅的人們。那些人們無論是當地人或同為旅人的,多有著與那片土地共通的特質,因此每每有美妙的相遇。在那些艱辛的旅程中,接受過他們無數次的幫助和相互扶持,以至於因緣際會地提示了我人生難題的解答。或許只是偶然吧,而一系列的偶然卻又巧妙得像是一種安排,因此我對這樣的地方和人們有一種特別的情感,卻也因此害怕看到不想看到的改變。

For me, what most important in the journeys are people I met, rather than the beautiful scenery. Whether the locals or the travellers met in there, most of them have the character common with that land. In those tough journeys, I accepted their helps for numerous times, and they even prompted me the resolution of the difficult problems of my life. Hence, I have a special affection toward the land and the people, while being afraid to see the changes I don’t want to see.

擁擠的公車上的女童,有著澄澈的目光(Suru山谷)
A little girl who has clear eyes in a crowded bus. (Suru valley)


然而世事的好壞往往沒有絕對,質樸的背後是物質條件的匱乏。當外來的旅人們享受著那些原始的美麗的同時,那裡的人們可能因為醫療資源的欠缺而忍受著病痛的折磨,老人、小孩常因此而不能盡其天年。美麗的背後隱藏著衰落的危機。如果只著眼於自己的私欲,只是做個只攫取美好的一面來滿足美感需求的過客,就會害怕失去記憶中的美好,而忽略掉文明發展所能帶來的正面意義。

However, a matter is always have both advantageous and disadvantageous. Behind the unadorned beauty is the shortage of material conditions. When the travellers enjoying the original beauty, the locals may suffering with diseases since the shortage of medical resources. Crisis of decline are hidden behind the beautiful surface. If a person merely want to be a passing visitor who only grab the beautiful aspect to satisfy himself, he will be afraid to destroy his beautiful memories and ignore the positive aspect of civilization development.


往內心探索的過程中,我體會到人性與事物的一些共同點,因而開始懂得去體諒,進而本著體諒的心去關愛人事物。漸漸地能夠包容不盡如己意的人事物,以至於從不完美中品味出別樣的美好,因為那種關愛之情的極致就是世間的最高美德:道家的「慈」、佛教的「慈悲」、基督教的「愛」,它所蘊含的無私精神足以讓人超越個人的得失,就如同《聖經》中提到的:「愛是恆久忍耐、又有恩慈... 不求自己的益處... 凡事包容,凡事相信,凡事盼望,凡事忍耐」。

In the process when I explore my inner world, I realize some common points between human nature and things. Consequently, I began to show understanding for others and to care others in accordance with the understanding, then I can gradually endure the things not according to my wishes. It’s because the extreme of the care is the highest morality: so called “gentleness” in Daoism, “mercy” in Bhuddism, and “love” in Christianity, which imply unselfishness which beyond the gain and loss of individuals.

基督教堂(Shimla)
Christ Church (Shimla)


因此有別於以往只是當個過客、而只把美好的印象封存在自己的記憶裡,現在的我更願意試著跟它們一起成長,看著它們的變化反觀自己的內心,試著去接受事物的興衰成敗,進而對自己的得失釋懷,而不必再作無謂的追逐、浪費有限的生命。相較於向外追尋,內心探索的旅程更加困難和艱險:因為必須直視自己的短處、面對內心深處的恐懼,需要的是更大的勇氣和毅力。

Hence, now I’m more willing to try to “grow up” with them by observing my inner world while seeing their changes, rather than being a passing visitor as in the past. I’ll try to accept the rise and decline of things so as to relief from the gain and loss of myself, instead of wasting the life by meaningless pursuing. In comparison with pursuing outwardly, the journey of exploring one’s inner world is more difficult and dangerous because one have to face the defect of himself and the fears in the depths of heart: more courage and patience are needed.


* * * * *


人生本身就如同一趟長途旅行,真正美好的部分不多,大部份只是平淡無奇、以至於需要去忍受的狀態。生活的酸甜苦辣鹹、那種難以言喻的的百般滋味每個人都曾體會,但卻不是每個人都能夠樂在其中。也許人生就好比酒:要先能忍受烈酒的辛辣與苦澀,才能享受到它的甘美;要先遍嘗好的、壞的、各種滋味的酒,才會漸漸懂得去品味。

Life itself is just similar to a long journey, which beautiful times are the smaller part while the larger part are nothing exciting or even need to endure. Although everyone ever experience the complex flavor of life, seldom of them can enjoy life. Maybe life is just like liquor: one have to endure the hot and the bitter of liquor first before enjoying its sweet; one can only gradually know how to taste liquor after sampled various types of liquors.

荒原中的夜行車,十幾個小時的路程,漫長、疲累而無聊(從Leh往Manali的路上)
Overnight riding in a barren.  It’s a ride more than ten hours, which is long, tiresome and dull. (On the way from Leh to Manali)


七年前的那趟旅程以來,我因緣際會地以禪宗的方式、道家的理論入道,而後除了接觸原本陌生的哲學、宗教領域之外,也廣泛地涉獵藝術、音樂等人文領域的東西,試著融會貫通這些領域的精神,進而實踐在生活中的各方面,以這樣的方式學著去享受、品味生活。藉由這趟旅行我得以驗證這幾年的努力,所幸儘管高海拔的嚴峻環境有時令人望之卻步,最終還是以自己的一介羸弱之軀一步步走過了許多壯麗的美景,感到欣慰的同時也對現在的自己有更深的了解。

Since the journey seven years ago, I occationally realize the implication of philosophy through Zen method and Daoist theories. In addition to study philosophy and religion which I originally unfamiliar with, I also studied humanities subjects such as art and music. I tried to grasp the spirits of those subjects thoroughly to put them into practice in every aspect of life, thereby learning to enjoy life. I verified the achievements of these years’ efforts through this journey.

走在峽谷中的小徑(Phuktal寺附近,Zanskar地區)
Walking on a trail in a gorge (Near to Phuktal monastery, Zanskar district)


相較於七年前,旅途中無論是身體或心理方面整體而言都改善了許多。這多要歸功於這些年的內心探索,旅途中同樣面臨了無數次的恐懼、孤寂、憂傷、憤怒等負面情緒的考驗,而今由於對自己的內心狀況有充分的了解,而能夠敏感地察覺出那些負面情緒、進而去因應,使得一樣的艱辛旅程能以更從容的姿態來走。而經過這幾年的社會磨練,我也還仍舊是那個能享受過程中的艱險和不確定性、卻難以忍受日復一日的平淡無奇的人:野狼終究不可能被豢養成家犬。

In comparison with the journey seven years ago, both my physical and mental conditions are generally improved. Although I faced many negative emotions as before, I can observe them accurately and then cope with them since I comprehend my inner condition sufficiently. Through this journey, it seemed even after these year’s experience in society, I’m still the person who can enjoy the difficulty, the danger, and the uncertainty in process, while hard to endure dull routine life: a wolf is impossible to be cultivated as a house dog.


這趟旅行的某些記憶將成為我生命的養分,隨時能化成文字、化為琴音、化作安頓生命的能量,為我今後的生命增添光彩。近年在東方的哲學、音樂、藝術等領域多有投入,今後除了持續在熟悉的領域持續精進之外,會再著力於武術、中醫等其他相關的領域,從更多方面並進、以一窺東方智慧的豐富內涵。

Some memories of this journey will become to the nutrients of my life, which can be transformed to characters, instrumental voices, or the power to settle my life, which enhances my life. In recent years I invested in philosophy, music, and art of the east. In the future, I’ll invest in martial arts, Chinese medical science, and other related subjects, while in originally familiar subjects, so as to know more contents of eastern wisdom.

在千年古剎的屋頂上彈琴(Dhankar寺,Spiti山谷)
Playing guqin on the roof of a thousand years’ ancient temple. (Dhankar gompa,Spiti valley)


* * * * *


而今終於明白,如果能摒除無謂的煩惱而把握住每個當下,則無處不能發現美麗的東西。就像有一次偶然注意到寺院屋角的風鈴,看它隨緣而往、應緣而來地隨風搖蕩,奏出的是人為的音樂所不能及的天籟之音。《老子》中提到:「道生之,德畜之,物形之,勢成之」,由此可知任何事情的成敗最終看的並不是人力所能及的部分,終究還是得由其他有形、無形的力量來成就,因此不必太拘泥於成敗,隨緣才能自在、才有美麗的生活。

Eventually I realize that one can always find beautiful thing in everywhere while he can seize every moment by getting rid of senseless worries. As one time I saw a wind bell hanged on a cornor of a temple, which just swung with wind, and made the heavenly music which can not be made by human. It’s just as Daoist thoughts which teach us the achievement of anything eventually depends on some tangible/intangible powers other than human instead of the effort humans. Hence, there’s no necessary to worry about the achievement too much.

隨風搖蕩的風鈴(Likir寺)
A wind bell swings with wind (Likir gompa)


這趟旅程走過許多土石鋪就的簡陋道路,在那樣的嚴峻環境中體會到造路的不易。特別是走在那些險峻的山間小徑時,腳下的每一步幾乎都仰賴著前人的鋪墊,因而由衷感謝那些造路者們。若不是那些從事著最底層、骯髒而危險的工作的修路工人們一磚一石的細心鋪就,以至於那些先行者們留下指引方向的腳印,我的旅程會更加艱難。所以,而今而後在我所在的任何地方,我會更願意試著為那些相遇的人們,在彼此的人生路上做個好的旅伴。

In this journey I walked through many roads which not well paved, and realize the difficulty to build roads in the severe environment. Especially when I walked on the trails in the places with severe terrain, I sincerely appreciate the road builders since every step was depend on their works, because I know my journey will be more difficult. Hence, from now on, in every place where I am, I will be more willing to try to be a good fellow traveller for the people who I meet on the road of each other’s life.

修路工人(Zanskar地區)
Road builders (Zanskar district)


西風吹拂的季節,空氣中彷彿有遠方那片土地的氣息。在那零下數十度的嚴冬到來之前,不知道遠方的那些人們是否已經準備足夠。但願他們在那數個月的漫長冰封中,想起曾有個來自遠方的旅人時,能夠多一絲絲溫暖。但願明年春天,溫暖的東風早些返來,幫我稍去遠方的問候。

In the season of west wind, it seemed like there are some smells of the remote place in the air. Will the people in the remote place be prepared before the severe winter comes? Wish they will feel a little more warmer in the several months’ frozen, when they think of the traveller came from a faraway place. Wish the warm east wind of next spring will come earlier, and bing my greeting to the remote place.

人在旅途(Leh)
Traveller on road (Leh)

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